The big news from last week is that I have now started weekly
Arabic lessons with a private tutor, and am slowly picking up the basics. So,
I’d like to welcome you to this blog with ‘As-salaam alee-kum’, which is very
respectful greeting, literally meaning ‘peace be upon you’.
Unfortunately, that is almost the limit of my Arabic at the
moment. Although I have shared ‘Ism-i William’ and ‘Ana min England’ with
random shopkeepers who seem delighted that I making an effort. But it’s a bit
embarrassing that I then can’t ask for a pint of milk without reverting back to
English!
My Arabic tutor, called Adil, does more then just take teach
the language. He also keeps me informed of what is going on in Khartoum, including events of religious and
cultural significance, which he knows I may like to experience. Last Friday, he invited me to see the Whirling Dervishes
of Omdurman. This is the popular name of a group of Sufi worshipers who gather
just outside the centre of Khartoum
every Friday, to dance and worship Allah.
The event begins when a large crowd of Sufis (which is part
of the Sunni faith) gather outside a small mosque in the centre of a rather
eerie graveyard, and spontaneously stand in a large circle which is surrounded
by worshipers and a few interested tourists. A group of Sufis then march into
the circle, wearing brightly coloured green robes, and begin chanting and
dancing.
They are known as the ‘Whirling Dervishes’ because of the frantic way
that many of the Sufi spin around the space which is created in the centre of
the circle. I was told the purpose of the ceremony is for the Dervishes to
reach a state of ecstasy and enlightenment that enable them to link directly to
God.
Unfortunately, that is almost the limit of my Arabic at the
moment. Although I have shared ‘Ism-i William’ and ‘Ana min England’ with
random shopkeepers who seem delighted that I making an effort. But it’s a bit
embarrassing that I then can’t ask for a pint of milk without reverting back to
English!
I can also confidently tell a taxi driver ‘tawwaali’ to go
straight-on. However, asking him to turn left or right, or stop, would be
tricky if alone. Needless to say, I am hoping to make some progress over the
next few weeks!!
My Arabic tutor, called Adil, does more then just take teach
the language. He also keeps me informed of what is going on in Khartoum, including events of religious and
cultural significance, which he knows I may like to experience. Last Friday, he invited me to see the Whirling Dervishes
of Omdurman. This is the popular name of a group of Sufi worshipers who gather
just outside the centre of Khartoum
every Friday, to dance and worship Allah.
The event begins when a large crowd of Sufis (which is part
of the Sunni faith) gather outside a small mosque in the centre of a rather
eerie graveyard, and spontaneously stand in a large circle which is surrounded
by worshipers and a few interested tourists. A group of Sufis then march into
the circle, wearing brightly coloured green robes, and begin chanting and
dancing.
They are known as the ‘Whirling Dervishes’ because of the frantic way
that many of the Sufi spin around the space which is created in the centre of
the circle. I was told the purpose of the ceremony is for the Dervishes to
reach a state of ecstasy and enlightenment that enable them to link directly to
God.
It was certainly an amazing spectacle, and what struck me
was how happy and welcoming all the Sufi worshipers were. They were quite used
to expats and tourists watching the ceremony, and did not mind these
photographs being taken. There was even a moment when I was asked to join the
circle, which I did. Luckily there is no photo of this rather embarassing spectacle!
Until next week, 'Shukran' and 'Ma-a s-salaama' (thank you
and goodbye)
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