Driving in Khartoum (Headlights and brakes are optional)

The most significant event of the last week was on Tuesday, at 8:30am precisely. This was the time my geography lesson, observed by the deputy head, began. By 9.10am it was all over and I’m pleased to report it went very well. This means I’m on course to successfully complete my ‘probation’ at the end of the month.

The rest of my week was quiet, so following my coach trip experience last week, I will use this weeks blog to comment more generally on driving and transport in Khartoum. With the exception of the rickshaw, the images on today’s blog are from the internet and are therefore not my own photos.

There are many expats in Khartoum, including some from another international school, who are given a car as part of their employment package. Staff at Unity do not get this perk, but are instead allowed to book a school minibus (on a first come first served basis) for up to two hours at no cost. This may seem like a raw deal, but driving in Khartoum is a high risk activity – so I’m quite happy with no car! Traffic is simply chaotic on the main streets and most drivers are irresponsible. Given the chance, I am sure many would love to reach the speeds which are possible on desert roads, and their frustration in not being able to do so is illustrated by the number of car horns which are audible at every junction! I recently found some traffic advice for expats on the website for the British Embassy in Sudan, which highlights the risks:

“New arrivals should exercise caution when they begin driving in Khartoum. Although the traffic is not fast moving local drivers pay little attention to the rules of the road. It is common for vehicles not to have working brake lights, indicators or even brakes. Drivers tend to pull out in front without any notice or signal, irrespective of who has right of way. Driving at night is particularly hazardous. Unfortunately many vehicles do not have lights that work or sometimes just one light. Please drive slowly and extremely carefully at night. If you are driving on the outskirts of Khartoum remember that roads have a habit of ending abruptly and turning into dirt tracks. There are no up to date street maps and people therefore often use their own hand drawn maps with invitations. Khartoum can be confusing, so make sure you have clear directions. When new to the city you would probably be wise to follow someone else if going to a difficult location”

Khartoum does have a local bus network, but if you don’t speak Sudanese, it can be difficult to understand the destination of each bus. However, when both of the school minibuses are booked, I can easily take a rickshaw, amjad or a taxi instead. Rickshaws are extremely cheap, but there some areas of Khartoum where they are not allowed. Amjads are more like small minibuses, and are extremely useful if you are travelling as part of a small group. They just drive around the city looking for business, so it is easy to find one if you stand by the side of the road. In fact, if you are white and looking lost, they will probably find you! But taxis are not for the fainthearted as most of them are extremely old and many are in a state of disrepair.

My only personal taxi experience was last weekend, when returning home from Khartoum bus station, following the week in Port Sudan. My taxi had no lights of any kind - just a gaping hole where you would expect each light to be. The dashboard was clearly just for effect, as none of the lights or dials worked – including the speedometer! The doors were operated by some kind of converted coat hanger and there had clearly been a great deal of welding to keep the vehicle in one piece. When asked how long he had owned the taxi, the driver revealed he bought it in 1976!! So, older than me then!! Needless to say, I don’t anticipate any further taxi experiences.