Sunday, April 8, 2012

An ‘eggless’ Easter in Khartoum

Last week has been a week of firsts for me, which included my first visit to the US embassy, my first church service in Khartoum and my first Easter without chocolate eggs! (But perhaps the latter experience was not surprising given the heat of Khartoum and the international trade sanctions).

I also hosted a ‘party’ in my apartment for the first time last Wednesday, if you can describe hosting a bridge club as a party! I’m not really a bridge player, in fact I barely know the rules, but I joined the club a few weeks ago as another way of socialising and getting to know more people.

I kept myself busy for the Easter weekend which followed, and managed to get added to the guest list for a party at the US embassy on Good Friday. The event had ‘native dress’ theme, so I decided to wear a football shirt and for a fleeting moment I thought I may be turned away for looking like a hooligan, but it was the only English-related item of clothing I could think of. Security was certainly very tight (no electric devices were allowed, including phones and cameras) but the music and liquid refreshments soon enabled me to relax in my Arsenal top. In fact, there were several people who wearing a sport-related shirt to express their national identity, but obviously there are no photos.

Saturday was a chance to lie in and recover from the night before, and later a colleague who lives directly above me had a barbecue on his balcony, which was great and made a change from the pasta and rice related dishes which I normally cook for myself.

I did have plans to go to church on Easter day, but I went off this idea when I found the Anglican cathedral is the other side of the city. However, I did walk with some friends down to the Nile where St Matthew’s Roman Catholic Cathedral can be found (actually quite close to Lord Kitcheners gunboat). There was a service going on, but it was is Arabic, so we only stayed to listen for a few minutes and then moved on.

The day was now heating up so we soon stopped at this impressive shop on Nile Street selling fresh fruit juice. Then, a bit further down the street we found the old Anglican Cathedral, which has now been converted into the Palace Museum. Fortunately it was open, and although only small, it was a fascinating museum, containing the record of the events (and battles) which led to Sudanese independence. There’s a selection of British muskets and swords from colonial rule, and several portraits of the British Governor general’s who lived (and in some cases died) in Sudan. This included a portrait and bust of a young Lord Kitchener. However, perhaps the highlight of the museum is the collection of official cars outside, (including Rolls Royce’s) used by various dignitaries both during and after colonial rule.

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