Hash on Tuti Island and Nuba Wrestling

One of my first blogs was about the Khartoum Hash Harriers – a running club which I had joined in order to stay fit and healthy (plus meet new people). I still attend this every week, although I’m not entirely sure if it has made any difference to my level of fitness. I suppose there is just too much sitting around for the rest of the week!

Now that the weather is starting to heat up, the Hash has started to meet much later in the day, and more people (including myself) seem to be opting for the walking route, which is usually available as an alternative for those who would prefer not to kill themselves running in temperatures above 30 degrees. (It is over 40 most days now, but by late afternoon the temperature has dropped a bit).

One of the best locations for the Hash is on Tuti Island, which is situated where the White Nile meets the Blue Nile. There are plenty of pleasant walks (or runs) to be had through the well irrigated green fields and along the beaches of the island, some of which are sandy (although others are just mud!). As the Hash met on the island last week, I thought I would take the opportunity to walk and take some photographs.

Unlike the rest of Khartoum, Tuti island is very peaceful (and clean!) and whilst walking there you can easily forget you so close to the city centre. Most of the island is just a small farming community, which until recently was very isolated and remains poor and undeveloped. In fact, the bridge which connects the island to central Khartoum was only built a few years ago. Prior to this, the only access was by ferry. On the north of the island there are some interesting fortifications, which were built around the time of the Mahdi.

Another sight worth seeing is the traditional Nuba wrestling, which I was taken to this week. The wrestling takes place from 5pm every Friday in ‘Souq Sita’, which is a market in the district of Bahri. A simple ring is marked out using just flour and separated from the rest of the market by curtains, but the sport is clearly taken very seriously by both participants and spectators. Whilst I was watching there were several blood injuries, and some very heavy handed moves. After being thrown to the ground, one large wrestler just sat still for several minutes, apparently winded. Just like any other sporting event, there are people on hand selling food and drink, but in Khartoum it is just water, bags of nuts and some rather good hand-made fruit ice-pops, which I sampled!